Day 3

Jan. 6, 2008

Day 3 in the Gambia and I’m being eaten alive. I have no idea what or who is biting me, but I’m completely peppered in bites. Despite covering myself in Deet, something is having a field day on my tasty American flesh.

Sunday, the Christian day of rest doesn’t really exist here as a.) it is a predominantly Muslim country and b.) every day is a traditional day of rest. Today we were afforded the opportunity to see an untouched part of the coastline that was truly breathtaking. The owners of our hotel, Maurice and Geri are building an eco-lodge/cultural exchange center right on the beach near the Southern Senegal border. The property is beautiful, but their intentions are the really amazing part. This lodge will be predominantly powered by solar energy, it features compost toilets (your poop becomes their fertilizer!) but most impressively, their buildings are made out of the Earth. They’re constructed of blocks of compressed dirt. It’s similar to the idea of adobe, but they contract local workers to press this “dough” into bricks, blocks and other shapes. The lodges are true luxury housing with domed roofs, private balconies and a plunge pool, which I couldn’t determine if it was a hot tub, or just a really small swimming pool. It’s all top notch- but I was most taken aback by the sense of isolation. When we were walking back from the beach, literally the only sounds to be heard were the waves crashing on the shore and the rustling palm trees. It really made you feel like you were a member of the Swiss Family Robinson and want to build a massive treehouse compound.

It took nearly an hour to drive basically the width of The Gambia. On the way back, our driver, Bakary, all of a sudden pulled over at one of the tiny villages, jumped out of the car, and ran into one of the huts. My eyes got pretty big, I imagine, because Mr. Badgie immediately reassured me that he was just running in to grab something. However, soon after he ran into that hut, the car was completely surrounded by kids smashing their faces against the windows all while screaming “HELLO!” This continued for another 10 minutes while we waited. They’d say hello, we’d say hello back, they’d laugh. They’d say hello, we’d say hello back, they’d laugh. FINALLY Bakary returned with a covered tub. I learned it was filled with fresh milk and immediately I began praying that he’d step on it to get back because I didn’t want any sour milk.

One thing I noticed about the ancient Peugeot station wagon we were in, was that the speedometer didn’t work. I determined this by noting it read ZERO as we cruised by various cars. We were NOT at rest, however. It wasn’t a large problem though because there are no speed limits posted. There are many “police checkpoints” located throughout the country I noticed as well. I have no idea what the police are looking for in these rather un-invasive check zones…perhaps skin bleaching materials which are illegal to bring into The Gambia?

Tomorrow will be the busiest day yet. We meet with the solar panel company, the chairman of the board at the hospital, the permanent secretary of the Department of State for Health as well as the permanent secretary of the Department of State for Foreign Affairs. In between all of these visits, we must also go to two schools to drop of letters for a penpal program Power Up Gambia has forged between schools in Delaware and Pennsylvania and The Gambia. Though it’s a busy day, I will FOR SURE have time to write, because the only entertainment I have is watching my camera charge.

Keep your nose and ears clean, because it sure is dusty.

with african love,
jz