Day 2

Jan. 5, 2008

Today I got a good, or at least a better look at this populated area surrounding the capital. I woke at 8 AM this morning to the jubilant crow of a rooster. When I walked out of our hotel room, I saw 5 or 6 chickens running through the hotel’s courtyard and I couldn’t help but wonder if their very eggs were hardboiled and laid out on the breakfast buffet. At 10:23, our friend and hospital director Kebba Badgie picked us up and took us to the post office. We had tried to go the day before, but by 2 PM, the post office is closed most days of the week. After the post office, we traveled to downtown Banjul.

In downtown Banjul, we nearly ran over 3 goats crossing the street as we made our way to the country’s best and most advanced hospital, the Royal Victoria Teaching Hospital. Our guide, Mr. Badgie used to work there before transferring to the Bwiam hospital we will be visiting in a few days. He knew everyone we ran into, partially because he said he was related to more than half of them. I already know I’m in for a shock when I arrive at the Bwiam hospital. Today I learned that the first ever Gambian doctors will not be full M.D.s until 2 years from now. That’s how new the first and only medical school in The Gambia is. There are no Gambian specialists and there isn’t even a single cardiologist in the entire country. Walking through the hospital made me appreciate the nasty meals served in our country’s finest institutions. I yearned for the sterile white halls of Christiana, the god-awful nurse uniforms. But most of all, I missed the hum and beep of machinery. It simply doesn’t happen here.

After we left the hospital (insert huge sigh of relief here) we went to more touristy areas of town, on the water. Mr. Badgie took us to where the River Gambia meets the Atlantic Ocean and consequently forced me to dip my feet in. (“It’s warm!” he triumphantly exclaimed) We were followed around that beach by a group of eight 12-year old boys who said nothing but followed us, got into our faces and stared at us the whole time we were there. They did say good-bye though.

Later we went to a local craft market at Bakau where Mr. Badgie bargained down all our purchases for us. Everything is such a steal, I honestly almost feel bad buying stuff. There are 21 Gambian dalasis to one US dollar.

Tonight for dinner, we decided to eat at the hotel. Our waiter was the same waiter we’ve had the past couple nights during our evening sipping sessions. We have the most awkward interactions with Sarjo, which is his name. I know what you’re thinking. “Why is he named Sarjo?” Well, you see, when a boy is born after twins in The Gambia, he is named Sarjo. So, Sarjo has older twin siblings. He speaks English pretty well, but tonight when we were ordering, he for some reason found it totally necessary to write down our orders in complete sentences. "She will have the pumpkin and spinach curry with rice." It took about 5 minutes to write down all of our orders.

Tomorrow we will continue to meet with lots of people. We may have some free time, however, to sit on the beach for a little while. At 13 degrees North latitude, I’m not going to last long in the equatorial sun. Till next time, be grateful you don’t have chickens waking you up in the morning. And if you do, well…just be grateful.

with african love,
jz